"Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)" (rduncan5678)
01/02/2019 at 09:00 • Filed to: None
4
11|
"Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)" (rduncan5678)
01/02/2019 at 09:00 • Filed to: None | 4
| 11 |
In order to add to my repertoire of “jack of all trades, master of none” I decided over my end of the year vacation I would take my first surfing lesson. Every day I drive through Malibu on the PCH and see surfers out there catching some waves and enjoying that beautiful Pacific Ocean. Well now I’m on my way to joining them and becoming a surfer bro. I feel like I can’t live in Los Angeles and not try it, and one of my lifetime goals are to ocean surf and Snow ski in the same day. I almost pulled it off within 24 hours of each other since I skiied on Thursday at Big Bear and then had my lesson scheduled for Friday. But high winds and the subsequent wild waves led my instructor to postpone a couple of days. Anyways, the lesson went great and I had an excellent time. It was quite tiring and I never did get to stand up and truly surf, but I made a ton of progress and am sure I can at least catch one wave for real and ride it like a newbie on the next lesson! My instructor was great and really helped me catch the basics and not hurt myself in the process. Either way, it was an excellent typical Malibu winter day with mid 60s, bluebird skies, and acceptably temperate water in a wet suit.
Hoping next time to not be recovering from a go Karting injury anymore (another story) and looking forward to eventually buying my own board and suit and getting out on the water on a weekly if not nearly daily basis.
Nibby
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
01/02/2019 at 09:11 |
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are you going to be the next john john florence?
Tripper
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
01/02/2019 at 09:24 |
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The first time you stand up is everything. I’ve been a snowboarder/skateboarder my whole life but didn’t try surfing until 4-5 years ago. I was getting so frustrated my first time out. Finally I popped up and stayed up and instantly understood the “stoke”. Like anything else it just clicks , I made it up on every decent wave after that until I was so tired I could barely swim.
I’m excited for you to experience the same if you intend to continue.
AdverseMartyr
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
01/02/2019 at 09:27 |
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Good luck in that freezing water.
functionoverfashion
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
01/02/2019 at 09:29 |
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The feeling of actually surfing on a decent wave feels to me about like the feeling of dropping down a narrow chute or small cliff on skis. It’s that same kind of rush, and you can see how addicting it is!
415s30 W123TSXWaggoIIIIIIo ( •_•))°)
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
01/02/2019 at 10:09 |
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Oh nice, I’m from Hawaii, I can’t even remember not being able to swim or ride a wave. I’ve been to San Clemente but that’s it for SoCal. I’m up north, chilly water. In Hawaii there are a couple body board only breaks I like so I have a Custom X body board too. Well good luck and I'm sure you will get hooked.
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Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
> Tripper
01/02/2019 at 11:39 |
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Yeah it was pretty neat just riding waves without standing. I finally got to the point at the end where I could have tried standing comfortably but I was just way too tired. I ended up eating a crap ton and then taking a 2 hour nap when I got home so I know I picked the right time to stop!
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Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
> AdverseMartyr
01/02/2019 at 11:43 |
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It was not bad at all and this was December! I am sure in the summer time it will feel great. With some gloves and booties, I would be 100% fine all day in the water for sure. Just the wetsuit and sunshine alone though were plenty to keep me comfortable. Would I want to just wade around and not move? No, that would probably get cold. But as long as I was moving I couldnt have asked for more warmth for the 3 hours I spent in the water.
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Tripper
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
01/02/2019 at 11:43 |
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The exhaustion from surfing is my second favorite part. It’s like a super tired “glow”. Driving home from the beach , windows down sticky from the ocean with almost a hum in my brain. Then yea, a serious nap.
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Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
> Tripper
01/02/2019 at 11:53 |
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Oh yeah I’ve experienced that plenty with skiing, hiking, and ultimate frisbee plenty of times. Surprisingly track days can get me the same exhaustion too which is always funny to me because I dont normally associate driving cars with excercise. Its a great time for a protein shake and some extreme laziness afterwards though, knowing that the rest is well deserved.
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AdverseMartyr
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
01/03/2019 at 00:29 |
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Yeah, not from my point of view (lived in Hawaii for 16 years, and Okinawa for 2 years. California water is always freezing from my perspective.
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Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
> AdverseMartyr
01/03/2019 at 11:46 |
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Haha ive been in the water around memorial day on the East Coast plenty of times. THAT is cold water. Anything warmer than that is pretty tolerable to me though. Bathtub water in the Atlantic in like late August is the worst. Wayyyyyy too warm.